Because I had to meet Maggie in Astorga yesterday at 3pm, I caught the bus to Leon. I first tried Cortes Ingles (what a fantastic store) for sandals but no luck so headed for the shops around the Cathedral where there was a good sports shop and I got some for 55 euros. I then caught the bus to Astorga and arrived with 30 mins to spare. Today has been incredibly hot with a temp of at least 25 degrees and it is steadily uphill from El Ganso. Poor Maggie had a baptism of fire on her first day of walking. Foncebaden is a ruined village right at the highest point just 2 km from Cruz de Ferros. The scenery is spectacular and while everything is green, I miss the profusion of wild spring flowers I saw in May last year. I started off in my shoes this morning but changed to my new sandals after 8 km, which made a huge difference. The only problem is that my shoes add an extra kg at least to my pack. We tried to get into the parroquial albergue but it was full so are staying in the 'hippy' one. It is amazing how many pilgrims are still walking. I continue to meet pilgrims from Granon who all tell me it is still their best experience. After the Iron Cross it is downhill all the way tomorrow. Cooler weather is predicted and then rain again on Thurs, Frid, Sat and Sunday. It will probably take us another 3 days to get to Cacabelos.
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Hi Jenny. I'm relieved you found sandals and that your poor feet feel better in them. Your boots have misbehaved and should have to walk on their own behind you while they think about how they've let you down.
ReplyDeleteI'm also relieved that you got to Astorga and found Maggie. I expect this journey will be difficult for her and it's a fine thing that you have made sure she won't have to go it alone.
Foncebadon is such a strange and wonderful little place. I hope the hippy albergue was nice to you all.
It is very satisfying to hear that you keep running into our pilgrims from Grañón and that they are still grateful for the hospitality there. Come as pilgrims, leave as friends -- it's really true. Now your Camino is full of these new friends. You were an outstanding hospitalera, in my opinion as a former pilgrim. Warm, hardworking, concerned, kind. You put the pilgrims first. And now as you walk you are reaping all that you sowed. I love it when the world works like this -- when someone like you gives without asking anything in return and then finds the returns pouring in.
Abrazos. B
Jen - from Foncebadon to el Acebo is very steep and then from there to Molinaseca I reccommend you walk on the road as often as possible to save your poor feet. One of the pilgrims in Sept had shin splints and found the rocky path excrutiating so we walked on the road. We were always in sight of the pilgrims on the path above us and the last 4km to Molinaseca were bliss on the road! Console yourself with the thought that the 'authentic' path is probably covered by the tarred road and the 'Camino' path is a newly created alternative!
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