It has been very cold and Barbara and Rachel have donated items of clothing to me to see me through to Santiago. My sleeping bag. is not warm enough and it was hard to refuse Barbara's lovely warm one she so generously wanted me to take but I am way over weight and can't carry another extra 200 gr. They dropped me at the bus stop in Santa Domingo at about 8.15 am on their way to Logrono to drop off their car and catch train to Madrid. I was so sad to say goodbye and will miss them enormously. They have been my family, friends, co-workers and support system for the last two weeks. I hope that they will visit me in Durbs or that I can get to Nappa in California to see them. While waiting for the Burgos bus I met up with 2 Canadian hospitaleras from Santa Domingo who had also just ended their 2 weeks. They didn't do any cooking or cleaning but spent their days running up and down the stairs taking pilgrims to their beds. They got 2.5 hours off each morning before they opened at 12 noon but I would not have changed anything at Granon for the world. I took the bus to Burgos and am struck again by the beauty of this city. It is also very fashionable and chic with some lovely clothing shops and lots of denim shops. I met up with an Irish peregrino who recognised me as he had stopped at Granon to have a shower. I was heading for San Bol but he told me it is already closed which has scuppered my plans. I have therefore decided to catch the bus to Castrojerez instead which will then give me 5 full days to walk the Meseta and time to get to Astorga by the afternoon of the 22nd to meet Maggie from the USA. A lot of the albergues are now starting to close so one can no longer take a chance with small villages. Granon stays open the whole year although there are some days in Dec and Jan when there are no pilgrims. Barbara and I checked the book last night to see there were about 5 pilgrims on Christmas Day and about 7 on New Years Day. Hope the calefaccion was working then as the fire place is not working and Padre says its too expensive to turn the heating on now. Barbara and Rachel, if you are reading this I do miss you guys and will be thinking of you when you have your 'coffee' at 5pm on the dot and Rachel, no need to have any bread with it. If you ever get to Durban I promise to do another chicken stew and will get my friends in for Rachel to get out her notebook and organise the chopping.
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Hello Jenny dear. Rachel and I are in a hotel room that looks out on the Puerta del Sol in Madrid. Rachel is going through every last thing in her suitcases, picking things up and putting them down in what looks like an aimless need to rummage. Reminds me of when she would root through the pantry in Grañon like a raccoon. We raised a glass of coffee to you and Grañon tonight. We hope you are warm and among friends. You are decidedly missed and Rachel and I are like bookends with nothing in the center. When we got to the hotel Rachel went off to watch people in the plaza and to shop. I took to my bed for hours. We were such a good team and it was hard this morning to see you take off with your pack and poles. I envy you your yellow arrows to tell you what to do next. I am relieved you don't have to rush across the meseta to get to Astorga now and I hope you have a sweet evening in Castrojeriz. Thinking if you. B
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