Cacabelos to Ruitelan 28 kms and Ruitelan to fonfria - 24. Kms

This is the first place where one has to pay for wifi. It is 1euro for an hour but as I had no wifi yesterday it is worth it. The computers are far too slow so wifi on phones is the only option .We have had the most stunning scenery over the last 3 days. I thought spring was the time to do the Camino but nothing can compete with the autumn \winter colours. I am simply loving every moment of walking despite all the long uphills today (from 600 m to 1220m). Before we left Cacabelos yesterday, we checked the marble shell and it had set rock hard. At Villa Franca de Bierzos we had to search all over for the tree where Enrique's boots were hung and finally found it outside the municipal albergue but boots are gone. Maggie wanted to stay at Ruitelan, a Buddhist albergue which was fine and they served a marvellous meal. We were woken up to Maria Callas singing Ave Maria this morning. Left at 8.15 am this morning in the dark but had the most spectacular walk. The scenery is magnificent and we stopped every few metres to take photos. We had rain 4 kms from Oceibrero and thick mist and then intermittent rain and mist for the rest of the day but it has been fantastic walking weather. I have now walked 546 kms and have 138 kms left to Santiago. I am hallucinating now about having a bath, having some space to myself, spending one night sleeping in a bedroom between sheets and not in a dormitory in a sleeping bag, being able to use a hair dryer, not wearing the same clothes day after day that are never clean because there is only freezing cold water to wash them in, and most importantly, seeing my family again. The Camino makes one appreciate the most basic things in life and ones needs are so simple. There is thick mist outside now and all the pilgrims we have been moving along with are now turning up. Tomorrow the clocks go back so we have an extra hour of sleeping in. I posted all my summer stuff to me in Santiago but my pack is still heavy. Barbara - please tell Rachel I wear her silk top every night am grateful to her for donating it to me.
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